When people talk about natural hair, looser curls often get the spotlight. But kinky hair, (those tight, beautiful coils), is often misunderstood and overlooked.
Breaking Free From Length Obsession
When you look in the mirror and see your hair springing back to its natural curl pattern after a fresh wash, what do you feel? Some of us might sigh, frustrated by the loss of visible length, thinking shrinkage is holding us back. But let’s clear the air: shrinkage is not damage. In fact, it’s the very opposite.
Shrinkage is one of the most misunderstood aspects of natural hair. For years, we’ve been taught to equate long, straight hair with beauty, making us resent shrinkage. But length isn’t the only measure of hair health.
Here’s the truth: shrinkage is a sign of elasticity, and elasticity equals healthy hair. Elasticity allows your hair to stretch without breaking, bounce back into its natural shape, and resist damage from styling or environmental stress. If your hair shrinks, it means it has the moisture and protein balance needed to retain its structure.
Tighter curl patterns, like 4B and 4C, require specific care that differs from looser curls. Why? Because kinky hair is the most fragile hair type because of its tight coil structure, which makes it harder for natural oils to travel from the scalp to the ends. Hydrating deep conditioners, leave-in treatments, and natural oils, like our Herbal Oil for example, or jojoba and argan oils are a must
Why Extra Moisture is Important?
The sebaceous glands that produce sebum (the hair’s natural conditioner) are less active in curlier hair. This means that the hair requires more external moisture to remain healthy. Regular moisturizing treatments with water-based products can help keep the hair hydrated and reduce breakage.
Choose hair products that are specifically designed for tightly coiled hair. Look for ingredients like glycerin, honey, and aloe vera, which are known for their moisturizing properties. Avoid products with heavy silicones and sulfates, which can weigh down the hair and strip it of moisture.
But… have you ever noticed how your favorite product suddenly doesn’t “hit” the same? Over time, hair can adapt to the ingredients in a product, causing it to lose effectiveness.
This adaptation is particularly noticeable in the Black community, where hair textures vary widely and the needs of each texture are unique. Over time, buildup from oils, creams, and butters can coat your strands, making it harder for products to penetrate and do their job.
What to Do When This Happens:
- Reassess your hair’s needs—what worked during winter may not work in summer.
- Rotate products. Hair thrives when you switch up your routine every few months.
- Use a clarifying shampoo monthly to remove buildup.
Your hair is constantly evolving, and your product choices should evolve with it.
And of course we love our grandmas, but some of the advice passed down through generations just doesn’t work for every texture.
Let’s talk about a few myths:
- Myth 1: “Grease grows hair”
Grease doesn’t promote growth; it can actually clog your scalp and hinder healthy growth. Opt for scalp oils that stimulate circulation, like peppermint or castor oil.
- Myth 2: Don’t wash your hair too often.”
While overwashing can dry out your hair, not washing enough can lead to buildup, dryness, and itchiness. Find a balance that works for your texture.
- Myth 3: “Relaxers make your hair more manageable.”
Relaxers are harsh chemicals that can weaken the hair over time. Natural hair is manageable with the right routine and products.
Breaking away from these myths allows us to educate ourselves and pass down healthier practices to future generations.
The Importance of Educating Yourself
It’s important to recognize that what works for one person’s hair might not work for another. What works well for a family member might not be the best for you. Educating yourself on the unique needs of your hair texture, whether it’s kinky, curly, wavy, or straight, is crucial. Experiment with different products and routines until you find what works best for you.
There’s no one-size-fits-all approach to hair care, and what works for someone else’s hair might not work for yours. Let’s shift the narrative and embrace every inch, every curl, and every bounce of our natural hair journey.